Well, it’s a very simple matter. The drum construction should provide an ideal resonance system.
- The rim of the drum should be firm and resilient. Material can be chosen according to a certain tradition but solid and flexible wood is preferable. Maple, for example, is an ideal material. Plywood or hardboard suck.
- Rim should be monolithic as possible and high quality wood glue should be used. Elasticity and firmness of dried glue must match the wood qualities. No screws, nails, studs, or wires. Also, do not use vitreous glues, for example, epoxy resin.
- Drum membrane should be of high-quality goatskin. Should form a flat surface, stretched firmly yet during the assembly. The drum shape distortion, of a low-quality, weak rim reduces efficiency of the membrane. Roughly speaking, a drum with a curved, not durable rim and poorly tensioned membrane is the equivalent at efficiency to a normal drum of significantly smaller sizes.
- The rim surface should be sanded smooth and covered with a waterproof structure, for example, a varnish. The edge of the rim should be semicircular in section so that the skin may be tight-fitting, without creases and sharp edges.
- The projections on the rim and other architectural excesses are justified only if it is required by certain shamanic concept. The same applies to the graphics on the membrane, and various suspensions and design complexity of the cross piece and the beater.
- Avoid shamanic drums that are made using nails or staples to stretch the membrane, or with a membrane sewn with thread to the rim. The same applies to the wood cross piece firmly fixed into the rim, which dampens the membrane vibrations connecting it with human body.
The shamanic drum is a system of balance between firm drum rim from one side and the membrane and the cross piece connected in one whole from the other.
- The drum handle and the beater must be comfortable in order not to distract the player from the process. The wooden cross piece should be tied with leather cords.